In this very high-brow version of ranch dressing, adapted from "Nothing Fancy" by Alison Roman (Clarkson Potter, 2019), scalliony chile oil gets sizzled with cilantro stems (or chives) and swirled into thick, lemony labneh If you can find green garlic, which tends to be hyperseasonal, use that or even ramps in place of the scallions Serve with raw vegetables for dipping, as a spread with crackers or flatbread, or alongside roasted lamb or vegetables.